December 10

We are now in Siem Reap. I was here one year ago and it had grown quite a bit in one year. This time I haven’t noticed the growth but I have noticed how much cleaner it is. Maybe the fact they are the host city for a very large Korean Expo has something to do with it. I do know that they were jailing the beggars on the street because they wanted to give a good impression so maybe the cleanup was generated by the city to impress the tourists. If so, it worked because compared with Phenom Pehn it is night and day cleaner. Trash in the trash cans and even saw a garbage pickup truck. First one I’ve seen.

Met the “brat” Hip right after we arrived at the Golden Banana. This is a small guesthouse and the owners have built another upscale guesthouse across the street with a swimming pool. Very big change in this neighborhood! There is a Muslim temple or mosque that alternates playing very annoying “ice cream truck” type of noise and men’s voice reading something also annoying over a loud speaker. Where is it written that you must share your shit “music” or readings with the neighborhood? I have to wear earplugs when I want to take a nap. Also at certain times of the day they start banging bells at the temple to let people know the time I guess. Just enough to wake the dead I think.

Everything here in Cambodia is spirit-related. Spirit houses outside the home so the spirits will stay in these houses and not come in the family home. It must work because I haven’t seen any spirits yet. Been raining in short spurts today but hasn’t bothered us. Bunson, our original tuk-tuk driver from three years ago has now graduated to driving a taxi so he met us and we drove “dry” to the big central market to buy some clothes for Hip for the trip. Allen is taking Hip to Bali and Borneo and he only has about 10 articles of clothing to his name so we bought him some shorts and shirts for the trip. This will be his first time out of Cambodia other than a couple of days in Thailand. First airplane ride and first real travel. It will be interesting to see him out of his “element.” Some of you know that we first met him on a boat/souvenir shop on Tonle Sap (the lake) outside of Siem Reap. He is the middle child of three orphan boys who we have “adopted.” Hip’s older brother, Hun, was the boy we saved from rather certain death from TB. He weighed 60 lbs and was 19. Had breakfast with him this morning and he looks great. Now weighs 102 lbs and is healthy. All three boys live with Grama who we support each month with food money for the family. She is only in her 50s but looks very much older but has taken care of the boys for years on next to nothing.

Hun, the oldest, is studying English every day but has had very little education and cannot read, but everyday he rides his bike 45 minutes to school. He seems very dedicated and is very sweet. Has no concept that he was as close to death as he was. He just knows he was sick and is now better. The youngest boy, Serun, is the only boy that works. Seven days a week and sleeps at the construction site where he works. He is also very sweet and very quiet and unassuming. Very hard worker and brings money home to Grama every payday. So of the three boys, only Serun works, Hun has an excuse but Hip doesn’t and just bumps though life with his smile and “street smarts.” Only thinks of today, never any farther but is a good family.

So after buying some clothes for Hip’s travels, very cheap, we had lunch, used the internet phone to call home and check on Grama and came back to nap now. The annoying “ice dream truck” noise has thankfully stopped so am going to try to nap.